I don't know, maybe yesterday was a bad day, but today's looking a lot better. We all had a big dinner last night, and it was a lot of fun. A lot of wine, and a lot of meat.
Meat. Romania is ALL about the meat. Most menus hardly have anything meatless on them, and you even get cold meats for breakfast. Madness. That aside, the food is absolutely delicious. I usually end up having some hearty soup for dinner, along with some kind of meat and the national dish, mamaliga (a kind of polenta). Like one night I had minced pork rolled in sauerkraut. And last night I had a peasant dish of layers in a bowl, starting with mamaliga and then with goat cheese, pork, a fried egg and more cheese piled on top. Awesome. Where else would you get food like that?
The tour is, at worst, convenient, and it gets me into a lot of things for free and gets me there for free. Like today we went to Bran Castle (of Dracula fame...pretty boring, really), and Rasnov fortress, which was really great. It's an old ruined fortress from the 1400s, and they're painstakingly restoring it to the way it looked then, complete with 80 houses, a chapel, and a school, all within the citadel walls. There are also donkeys, which, while not as exciting as monkeys (see Shelley's blog), are really cute. Plus, they eat apples from your hand. Awww.
Other highlights of the day - bargaining furiously with an old woman at the market at Bran Castle and riding local buses in 90 degree weather. Shelley, I do not envy you your Chinese transportation.
Going to eat soon, which is always the highlight of the day. :P Also, something else that makes me happy? Pictures. Enjoy the smorgasbord...unfortunately, the only photos the internet speed in this cafe allowed me to upload. So enjoy and quit your complaining. :P
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=u54fr1b.beo8lb9z&x=0&y=-meb44f
= :)
Jun 30, 2006
Jun 28, 2006
Degamed...big time
So. All the guidebooks (and a lot of fellow travelers) warn you about Romania before you visit, telling you to look out for scams on taxis and trains and pretty much everywhere else. Little did I think that the biggest scam would be from my tour group.
I don't know what made me sign up for a group tour of Romania...maybe I was afriad to go to the country myself, maybe before setting off to travel alone I didn't think I could make it by myself for 2 straight weeks after Croatia. Whatever it was, it was a bad idea. First of all, the country is dirt cheap, so I have no idea where my exorbitant (for Romania) tour fee is going. My tour mates are: 2 middle-aged friends from Australia, a Kiwi couple in their 30s, and a mildly boring Belgian girl about my age. (Our tour guide is another matter altogether - she's Polish and in her 20s and fantastic, but she really can't make up for everyone). Everyone is perfectly nice, and we've had some good dinners out, but there's no one I've really connected with. I met SO many people at the hostel in Bucharest - maybe it was a fluke, but I had someone to go out with every night. Here I feel more isolated than I did traveling alone, because I'm alone in a group, which is far worse.
We're visiting lovely little Transylvania villages, which is nice, but ultimately boring, because there's not much else to do besides hiking and walking around - both of which are pretty undesirable in temperatures of 30 degrees Celsius and above. I just want something to swim in SO BADLY - I was right about thinking I should have ended my trip on the coast. I spend a lot of time reading and searching for shade. It's exciting, let me tell you.
It's not all bad. Oue first day in Sinaia, a little mountain resort, we took a cable car up 2,000 feet and then hiked down the mountain - for 6 hours. It was tiring, but really exhilarating - every turn offered a new view down the mountain, and we ran into herds of sheep and cows on the plains on top of the mountain. We also visited Peles Castle, which is absolutely gorgeous. It's just the dead time like now that's hard...I find myself trying to kill time a lot in between meeting up with other tour group members. If I were by myself, I would be on the move every day - or most likely, I would have given up and headed for the Black Sea by now. At this point, I'm looking forward to England being cold!
I don't know what I expected...maybe I thought the other people would be younger, or we would have a more interesting, less relazed tour. All I know is: no more tours. Ever. I don't care if I'm going to Cambodia, I'm doing it by myself. Or only on highly recommended tours (by people I know). I could have saved so much money! Eh. You live, you learn.
Sorry for the depressing news...I'm a little down because this is the last part of my trip and I was really looking forward to it. Oh well, there's still Scotland. Will write again soon (probably very soon, considering there's nothing else better to do). Boo.
= :(
I don't know what made me sign up for a group tour of Romania...maybe I was afriad to go to the country myself, maybe before setting off to travel alone I didn't think I could make it by myself for 2 straight weeks after Croatia. Whatever it was, it was a bad idea. First of all, the country is dirt cheap, so I have no idea where my exorbitant (for Romania) tour fee is going. My tour mates are: 2 middle-aged friends from Australia, a Kiwi couple in their 30s, and a mildly boring Belgian girl about my age. (Our tour guide is another matter altogether - she's Polish and in her 20s and fantastic, but she really can't make up for everyone). Everyone is perfectly nice, and we've had some good dinners out, but there's no one I've really connected with. I met SO many people at the hostel in Bucharest - maybe it was a fluke, but I had someone to go out with every night. Here I feel more isolated than I did traveling alone, because I'm alone in a group, which is far worse.
We're visiting lovely little Transylvania villages, which is nice, but ultimately boring, because there's not much else to do besides hiking and walking around - both of which are pretty undesirable in temperatures of 30 degrees Celsius and above. I just want something to swim in SO BADLY - I was right about thinking I should have ended my trip on the coast. I spend a lot of time reading and searching for shade. It's exciting, let me tell you.
It's not all bad. Oue first day in Sinaia, a little mountain resort, we took a cable car up 2,000 feet and then hiked down the mountain - for 6 hours. It was tiring, but really exhilarating - every turn offered a new view down the mountain, and we ran into herds of sheep and cows on the plains on top of the mountain. We also visited Peles Castle, which is absolutely gorgeous. It's just the dead time like now that's hard...I find myself trying to kill time a lot in between meeting up with other tour group members. If I were by myself, I would be on the move every day - or most likely, I would have given up and headed for the Black Sea by now. At this point, I'm looking forward to England being cold!
I don't know what I expected...maybe I thought the other people would be younger, or we would have a more interesting, less relazed tour. All I know is: no more tours. Ever. I don't care if I'm going to Cambodia, I'm doing it by myself. Or only on highly recommended tours (by people I know). I could have saved so much money! Eh. You live, you learn.
Sorry for the depressing news...I'm a little down because this is the last part of my trip and I was really looking forward to it. Oh well, there's still Scotland. Will write again soon (probably very soon, considering there's nothing else better to do). Boo.
= :(
Jun 26, 2006
Purple Rain, Purple Rain
Hey everyone...just thought my fellow Green-hoes would like to know that Prince's "Purple Rain" is the single most commonly-played song on Eastern European radio. I swear, I've heard it at least 6 times since I've gotten here. Big shout out to Sammy Ford. Bye!
= :)
= :)
Jun 25, 2006
Hello, people of Budapest!
Which apparently is what Michael Jackson said to a crowd filling a public square. In Bucharest. I've made sure not to mix up the names myself.
Bucharest is absolutely fantastic. It's hot as hell, the streets are full of people, and it's loud and noisy, but I really like it. I visited the Parliament today, which is the second largest building in the world, and is obulently turned out in the best of everything from Romania - marble, wood, silk, etc. It was built under Nicolae Ceausescu, the communist dictator, as a kind of meglomaniacal plan to transform Bucharest into the ideal communist city. It's actually not even finished yet, and the fact that construction continues is astounding. The Parliament is such a symbol of the repressive communist regime, but the people of Bucharest seem determined to turn it into a national monument - it's opulent enough to warrant that.
Ceausescu's plan razed a lot of the old city and involved a lot of concrete and a ceremonial boulevard exactly one meter wider than the Champs Elysses. The best part, though? It was called "Project Bucharest." Gotta love it.
The Funky Chicken Hostel has also lived up to all of my expectations (basically based on the name). It's really chill, in a great location, and the people are tons of fun. I think we're going out again tonight, which should be fun, considering the headache I woke up with this morning. I've definitely gone out on this trip more than I have in London for the past few months...madness. It's all been worth it, though. The fact that alcohol is generally the cheapest beverage helps a lot, as well. :P
I'm off to join my tour tomorrow, which I'm actually fairly ashamed of. I could totally have done Romania by myself, and for a lot cheaper. I feel like a wuss, somehow, after meeting all this hardcore backpackers. I feel like a dilettante. (And now I feel like a nerd for using that word. :P ) At least it means I might actually meet and hang out with people for more than one night for the next week. This can be good or bad. We shall see. Rest assured that I will pass judgement if the tour members suck. But then again, that didn't really prevent me from enjoying the last tour, so we shall see. It only takes one cool person...
Anyway, that is enough from me. Internet is cheap here, so expect to hear from me more often. And I'll try and post some pictures. I can't believe it's all winding down!
= :)
Bucharest is absolutely fantastic. It's hot as hell, the streets are full of people, and it's loud and noisy, but I really like it. I visited the Parliament today, which is the second largest building in the world, and is obulently turned out in the best of everything from Romania - marble, wood, silk, etc. It was built under Nicolae Ceausescu, the communist dictator, as a kind of meglomaniacal plan to transform Bucharest into the ideal communist city. It's actually not even finished yet, and the fact that construction continues is astounding. The Parliament is such a symbol of the repressive communist regime, but the people of Bucharest seem determined to turn it into a national monument - it's opulent enough to warrant that.
Ceausescu's plan razed a lot of the old city and involved a lot of concrete and a ceremonial boulevard exactly one meter wider than the Champs Elysses. The best part, though? It was called "Project Bucharest." Gotta love it.
The Funky Chicken Hostel has also lived up to all of my expectations (basically based on the name). It's really chill, in a great location, and the people are tons of fun. I think we're going out again tonight, which should be fun, considering the headache I woke up with this morning. I've definitely gone out on this trip more than I have in London for the past few months...madness. It's all been worth it, though. The fact that alcohol is generally the cheapest beverage helps a lot, as well. :P
I'm off to join my tour tomorrow, which I'm actually fairly ashamed of. I could totally have done Romania by myself, and for a lot cheaper. I feel like a wuss, somehow, after meeting all this hardcore backpackers. I feel like a dilettante. (And now I feel like a nerd for using that word. :P ) At least it means I might actually meet and hang out with people for more than one night for the next week. This can be good or bad. We shall see. Rest assured that I will pass judgement if the tour members suck. But then again, that didn't really prevent me from enjoying the last tour, so we shall see. It only takes one cool person...
Anyway, that is enough from me. Internet is cheap here, so expect to hear from me more often. And I'll try and post some pictures. I can't believe it's all winding down!
= :)
Jun 24, 2006
Romania!
I am finally here and it is so cool. I arrived in Bucharest today and it's so different from every other place I've been so far. The city has so much history, and I hope I can learn a little more about it before my tour, starting this Sunday. Also, the weather is nice hot summer weather, good for wearing summer clothes (finally!), but not so great for riding public transportation or lugging The Beast around. (I think it's actually growing...I weighed it at the airport today and I'm sure it was heavier than when I started - how is that even possible? I haven't bought anything!)
Anyway, am off to treat myself to a nice, cheap dinner. The hostel is great and everyone seems friendly. Looking forward to a good night's rest, really. See ya!
= :)
Anyway, am off to treat myself to a nice, cheap dinner. The hostel is great and everyone seems friendly. Looking forward to a good night's rest, really. See ya!
= :)
Jun 23, 2006
First love
You´ll all be relieved to find out that I´m back to taking pictures of fountains...Vienna is a little short on the waterfalls. The city is pretty nice, but seems stifling after Bled. It´s been 30 degrees Celsius for the last 2 days and its sticky and hot with no sea, waterfall, or lake to jump in. I miss Croatia. :(
Other things I´ve done: gone to the gardens at Schönbrunn (very nice, Denis), visited the old cemetary (gorgeos and leafy and very gothicly falling apart), and ate laugenbrotchen (pretyel bread) and spätzle (potato noodles). MMMMM. All my happy (food) memories of Germany coming back. Happy now, Nic? :P
Also - and I can´t believe I forgot to mention this - my last night in Split I went to a Bob Marley tribute concert, which was fabulous. The tribute band members were all white and Croatian (of course), but they did a pretty decent job of interpreting Bob´s songs. The perfect thing for a summer night by the beach after a couple of cheap Croatian beers. Ahh.
Flying to Romania, and hopefully internet is cheaper there. Then you can all look forward to a good long post. I know you´ve been waiting for it.
= :P
Other things I´ve done: gone to the gardens at Schönbrunn (very nice, Denis), visited the old cemetary (gorgeos and leafy and very gothicly falling apart), and ate laugenbrotchen (pretyel bread) and spätzle (potato noodles). MMMMM. All my happy (food) memories of Germany coming back. Happy now, Nic? :P
Also - and I can´t believe I forgot to mention this - my last night in Split I went to a Bob Marley tribute concert, which was fabulous. The tribute band members were all white and Croatian (of course), but they did a pretty decent job of interpreting Bob´s songs. The perfect thing for a summer night by the beach after a couple of cheap Croatian beers. Ahh.
Flying to Romania, and hopefully internet is cheaper there. Then you can all look forward to a good long post. I know you´ve been waiting for it.
= :P
Jun 20, 2006
Waterfalls are my new fountains
...considering how many pictures I've been taking of them in the past few days. To be fair, I've been to 2 national parks where the main attractions are waterfalls. But still...the numbers would horrify you.
I have actually been Little Miss Outdoors today. Determined not to let the fact I have one full day in Bled (in Slovenia, in the Julian Alps) deter me, I woke up at 7am (gasp!), had breakfast, and was on the road by 8. I managed to fit in today (deep breath) a hike in Vintner Gorge, which has beautiful waterfalls (and a 4k walk there and back through cute little alpine villages), a hike up to Bled Castle (too expensive to go inside), a swim in the lake (brr), and a whitewater rafting trip. All before 6pm. I am amazed by myself.
Anyway, internet is expensive, so must fly. Vienna next and then Friday in Romania!!
= :)
I have actually been Little Miss Outdoors today. Determined not to let the fact I have one full day in Bled (in Slovenia, in the Julian Alps) deter me, I woke up at 7am (gasp!), had breakfast, and was on the road by 8. I managed to fit in today (deep breath) a hike in Vintner Gorge, which has beautiful waterfalls (and a 4k walk there and back through cute little alpine villages), a hike up to Bled Castle (too expensive to go inside), a swim in the lake (brr), and a whitewater rafting trip. All before 6pm. I am amazed by myself.
Anyway, internet is expensive, so must fly. Vienna next and then Friday in Romania!!
= :)
Jun 17, 2006
Fresh off the boat
Going to have to make this one quick...my internet time is running out.
Off the ship, after getting a decent tan and enjoying a week of eating good food and swimming (in that order, naturally), and heading inland again. After one more day in Split, Im off to the Julian Alps in Slovenia and then Vienna, all before...duh duh duhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Romania! Should be some crazy times and Ill look for cheap internet so I can update more fully.
Miss everyone!
= :)
Off the ship, after getting a decent tan and enjoying a week of eating good food and swimming (in that order, naturally), and heading inland again. After one more day in Split, Im off to the Julian Alps in Slovenia and then Vienna, all before...duh duh duhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Romania! Should be some crazy times and Ill look for cheap internet so I can update more fully.
Miss everyone!
= :)
Jun 13, 2006
Croatian 'Sailing'
Note to self: Next time you plan on booking a 'Croatian Sailing Adventure,' ensure that the sailing adventure in question is A. On a boat that actually sails, as opposed to a glorified fishing trawler, B. At a time of year that has good weather, and C. Not on a boat almost entirely populated by Australian girls, aged 20-30.
So yeah, the sailing adventure has proved to be a little disappointing. The weather wasn't too nice and we were spending a lot of time on the boat with some very silly girls. But yesterday the weather improved and things started looking up. We went swimming off the boat in the gorgeous blue Adriatic, and I took out one of the sea kayaks and explored some seashore caves. It was amazing...the water is just this fantastic shade of blue, and the coastline is endless rows of cliffs with little red-roofed villages perched on them.
Yesterday we also arrived at Dubrovnik, a walled city right on the coast. It was damaged in the war in 1991 and 1992, but has been rebuilt so thoroughly, you could never tell anything was destroyed. I took a walk along the city walls with Dana (a really nice Canadian on the boat with me), which gave amazing views of the city and the sea behind. Then off to a little beach by the city, filled with all these smooth round pebbles and the same gorgeous water as everywhere else. I forgot my bathing suit, but figured if the men on the beach could subject me to their Speedos, I could get away with my underwear. Then the tastiest seafood paella/risotto-type dish I've ever had, and a liter of red wine for the both of us, all for about 8 pounds. And that's one of the most expensive meals I've had so far. Yaay Eastern Europe.
Off to more islands for the rest of the week, and then back to Split on Saturday, where I'm staying at Al's Hostel again (I was there on Thursday and Friday) because I had so much fun. Al is this entertaining British guy who just decided to open a hostel in Split. He reminds me of my fantastic gymnastics coach in London, and is tons of fun. Both the nights I was there, a group from the hostel went out for dinner and drinks, guided and accompanied by Al. The hostel isn't the prettiest, but it makes up for amenities in hospitality. It's nice when you're traveling alone to actually spend time with real people. (Although at the end of this tour, I know I'll definitely be needing some alone time - yaay floating dorm of Australian girls.)
Anyway, that's about it for now. Boring post, I suppose. All that wine last night has dulled my wit. Will try and write again soon!
= :)
P.S. Aw, thanks, Shelley! Although if you could see me after a day of serious traveling, you might change your mind. :P
So yeah, the sailing adventure has proved to be a little disappointing. The weather wasn't too nice and we were spending a lot of time on the boat with some very silly girls. But yesterday the weather improved and things started looking up. We went swimming off the boat in the gorgeous blue Adriatic, and I took out one of the sea kayaks and explored some seashore caves. It was amazing...the water is just this fantastic shade of blue, and the coastline is endless rows of cliffs with little red-roofed villages perched on them.
Yesterday we also arrived at Dubrovnik, a walled city right on the coast. It was damaged in the war in 1991 and 1992, but has been rebuilt so thoroughly, you could never tell anything was destroyed. I took a walk along the city walls with Dana (a really nice Canadian on the boat with me), which gave amazing views of the city and the sea behind. Then off to a little beach by the city, filled with all these smooth round pebbles and the same gorgeous water as everywhere else. I forgot my bathing suit, but figured if the men on the beach could subject me to their Speedos, I could get away with my underwear. Then the tastiest seafood paella/risotto-type dish I've ever had, and a liter of red wine for the both of us, all for about 8 pounds. And that's one of the most expensive meals I've had so far. Yaay Eastern Europe.
Off to more islands for the rest of the week, and then back to Split on Saturday, where I'm staying at Al's Hostel again (I was there on Thursday and Friday) because I had so much fun. Al is this entertaining British guy who just decided to open a hostel in Split. He reminds me of my fantastic gymnastics coach in London, and is tons of fun. Both the nights I was there, a group from the hostel went out for dinner and drinks, guided and accompanied by Al. The hostel isn't the prettiest, but it makes up for amenities in hospitality. It's nice when you're traveling alone to actually spend time with real people. (Although at the end of this tour, I know I'll definitely be needing some alone time - yaay floating dorm of Australian girls.)
Anyway, that's about it for now. Boring post, I suppose. All that wine last night has dulled my wit. Will try and write again soon!
= :)
P.S. Aw, thanks, Shelley! Although if you could see me after a day of serious traveling, you might change your mind. :P
Jun 10, 2006
Split!
Hey everyone -
Sorry this has to be quick, but Im heading off sailing in a couple of hours. Ill be away for a week and I dont know if I can update. But thats ok, because - who am I fooling? - no one really reads this, anyway. :P
Anyway, the weather is finally nice and Ive met a good group of people here..I dont think I want to leave. Off for new locales, though - will try and post a quick update soon.
= :)
P.S. My backpack has a name. Unfortunately, its not a cute name like Shelleys had. Its The Beast, and if you could see it, youd know what I mean. :P
Sorry this has to be quick, but Im heading off sailing in a couple of hours. Ill be away for a week and I dont know if I can update. But thats ok, because - who am I fooling? - no one really reads this, anyway. :P
Anyway, the weather is finally nice and Ive met a good group of people here..I dont think I want to leave. Off for new locales, though - will try and post a quick update soon.
= :)
P.S. My backpack has a name. Unfortunately, its not a cute name like Shelleys had. Its The Beast, and if you could see it, youd know what I mean. :P
Jun 8, 2006
A Lady of Leisure
Hello Everyone -
I just got back from the baths, where I sat in the sauna, waded in a thermal pool and got a massage AND a pedicure (for about 10 and 4 pounds, respectively). Then off tonight to the ballet and probably ending the night with a small meal and a glass of wine at one of the small cafes near my hostel. Ah, this is the life...too bad I need to make my salary in London to be able to spend it this lavishly in Budapest.
In other news, Budapest has completely kicked Prague's ass. I've spent the same amount of money here and done so much more, have eaten better, and have had so much fun. I really like Budapest - it's grittier and bigger than Prague, and it really has a lot more character.
Yesterday I wandered around the city for a while, walking through this gorgeous island park in the middle of the Danube, and then made my way up to Castle Hill, high above the city. Unfortunately, there wasn't much to do up there, but I did have some delicious sour cherry strudel at a cafe Let's Go swore was around when the Hapsburgs were in power. Hm. Delicious, though. I also met two middle-aged Swiss guys, who ate about 6 pastries in between them (stocking up for the ride home, they said) and called Budapest a "criminal city," which I thought was fantastic. Then caught a late Mass at the gorgeous St. Stephen1s Basilica before heading home for dinner.
Today started so ridiculously early that I got a lot of stuff done before 5. After a scare with my bankcard (Barclay's had froyen my account because it thought I was committing fraud with my own card by traveling to too many countries) that was tahnkfully solved by a quick phone call to England, I went off to the giant market on the river. Gin, it's just like the one in Florence, with all the fruit and meat vendors. Then off to the Great Synagogue, the largest one in Europe. Then Parliament, based off the British one. Then the best part of the day...the baths. I feel so ridiculously relaxed and pampered now...the rest of the evening is going to be great.
I leave tomorrow for Croatia, and I think I'll be a little sad to go. I don't know why, but I really like Budapest - maybe it's the lack of tourists or the cheapness of everything or the way the metro sign looks like the Transformers symbol, which is pretty cool but still odd because of my childhood fear of the Transformers cartoon - just ask Virginia, who used to taunt me with the theme song.
Anyway, off to the ballet soon. I'll try and write before I leave for sailing (this Saturday), because I don't know what my internet access will be like. Bye for now!!
= :)
I just got back from the baths, where I sat in the sauna, waded in a thermal pool and got a massage AND a pedicure (for about 10 and 4 pounds, respectively). Then off tonight to the ballet and probably ending the night with a small meal and a glass of wine at one of the small cafes near my hostel. Ah, this is the life...too bad I need to make my salary in London to be able to spend it this lavishly in Budapest.
In other news, Budapest has completely kicked Prague's ass. I've spent the same amount of money here and done so much more, have eaten better, and have had so much fun. I really like Budapest - it's grittier and bigger than Prague, and it really has a lot more character.
Yesterday I wandered around the city for a while, walking through this gorgeous island park in the middle of the Danube, and then made my way up to Castle Hill, high above the city. Unfortunately, there wasn't much to do up there, but I did have some delicious sour cherry strudel at a cafe Let's Go swore was around when the Hapsburgs were in power. Hm. Delicious, though. I also met two middle-aged Swiss guys, who ate about 6 pastries in between them (stocking up for the ride home, they said) and called Budapest a "criminal city," which I thought was fantastic. Then caught a late Mass at the gorgeous St. Stephen1s Basilica before heading home for dinner.
Today started so ridiculously early that I got a lot of stuff done before 5. After a scare with my bankcard (Barclay's had froyen my account because it thought I was committing fraud with my own card by traveling to too many countries) that was tahnkfully solved by a quick phone call to England, I went off to the giant market on the river. Gin, it's just like the one in Florence, with all the fruit and meat vendors. Then off to the Great Synagogue, the largest one in Europe. Then Parliament, based off the British one. Then the best part of the day...the baths. I feel so ridiculously relaxed and pampered now...the rest of the evening is going to be great.
I leave tomorrow for Croatia, and I think I'll be a little sad to go. I don't know why, but I really like Budapest - maybe it's the lack of tourists or the cheapness of everything or the way the metro sign looks like the Transformers symbol, which is pretty cool but still odd because of my childhood fear of the Transformers cartoon - just ask Virginia, who used to taunt me with the theme song.
Anyway, off to the ballet soon. I'll try and write before I leave for sailing (this Saturday), because I don't know what my internet access will be like. Bye for now!!
= :)
Jun 6, 2006
Traveling alone is more fun when you spoil yourself
So, today was shaping up to be the worst day ever before I turned it around. Read on.
I left Prague feeling a bit disappointed. I ran to the astronomical clock before I left to see it chime, and was severely disappointed. Everyone had been looking at me incredulously and saying - "You haven't seen the astrological clock yet?" So I went, running to get there in time, and it was so piddly. I mean, the disciples rotated around these two windows, and a little death statue rang a bell, but that was it. Huh.
I had a 12:40 train to Budapest, so I went to the station, realizing for the second time this trip that my backpack was too heavy. The "sleep sack" is going tonight. Damn you, Let's Go packing tips! I got on the train and was chucked out of two compartments before finding a seat. Note to self: Reserved seats are only 1 Euro. Get one next time.
So I did get a seat, but I was stuck next to this middle-aged, drunk Hungarian guy who felt the need to talk to everyone in the cabin - endlessly. I went to the restaurant car, buying a useless 2 Euro water for the privilege of sitting there, only to have him follow me and sit across the room creepily, smoking. I did get to try out some rusty German, though, as it was the only language the waiter and I had in common. Yaay, Deutsch!
So back to the compartment, where the otherwise lovely Czech lady across from me (she invited me to dinner with her, if I were going to Bratislava) felt the need to tell me everything that was wrong with America. Damnit. I should have just said I was Canadian. Much easier.
Meanwhile, drunk guy is continuing to harass the poor British teenage couple in the compartment with me. The guy is too nice to stop answering the drunk, so this just keeps going on until Budapest - for the entire 7-hour trip. I plug in my earplus and pretend not to notice.
When I got to Budapest, I started off ok, but then realized the directions my hostel sent to me had no street names on them. Awesome. After awkwardly asking Hungarians for directions, I found the hostel, where I took a shower and then collapsed on my bed with my stuffed cat, which Nic thoughtfully packed. (She IS a little heavy, though...damn you, Nic!!!)
I was about to give up on the night when I knew the trip would suck if I did so. So I got up, asked the hostel guy for recommendations, and ended up in Lizst Square, which is this lovely little square lined with big trees and tons of cafes. (In fact, this whole neighborhood is lovely. It's kinda like Paris, with the grand boulevards and the big trees. I like it better than Prague already.) I dropped into a cafe playing Sinatra, Bing Crosby, and Ella Fitzgerald, and treated myself to a fabulous appetizer of grilled feta cheese and tomatoes with garlic bread and a pretty decent glass of red wine. I will sleep well tonight. AND I feel 1 million times better.
So, the moral of the story? Food and wine will solve any of Anne's problems (and that's exactly what Nic would like you to think). Or maybe I should just step up and stop waiting for this vacation to happen to me. Spoiling, here we come.
= :)
P.S. Nic, I did NOT spell "traveling" wrong. I am American. Deal with it. Don't even think about posting about it.
P.P.S. I love you, sweetie. :P
I left Prague feeling a bit disappointed. I ran to the astronomical clock before I left to see it chime, and was severely disappointed. Everyone had been looking at me incredulously and saying - "You haven't seen the astrological clock yet?" So I went, running to get there in time, and it was so piddly. I mean, the disciples rotated around these two windows, and a little death statue rang a bell, but that was it. Huh.
I had a 12:40 train to Budapest, so I went to the station, realizing for the second time this trip that my backpack was too heavy. The "sleep sack" is going tonight. Damn you, Let's Go packing tips! I got on the train and was chucked out of two compartments before finding a seat. Note to self: Reserved seats are only 1 Euro. Get one next time.
So I did get a seat, but I was stuck next to this middle-aged, drunk Hungarian guy who felt the need to talk to everyone in the cabin - endlessly. I went to the restaurant car, buying a useless 2 Euro water for the privilege of sitting there, only to have him follow me and sit across the room creepily, smoking. I did get to try out some rusty German, though, as it was the only language the waiter and I had in common. Yaay, Deutsch!
So back to the compartment, where the otherwise lovely Czech lady across from me (she invited me to dinner with her, if I were going to Bratislava) felt the need to tell me everything that was wrong with America. Damnit. I should have just said I was Canadian. Much easier.
Meanwhile, drunk guy is continuing to harass the poor British teenage couple in the compartment with me. The guy is too nice to stop answering the drunk, so this just keeps going on until Budapest - for the entire 7-hour trip. I plug in my earplus and pretend not to notice.
When I got to Budapest, I started off ok, but then realized the directions my hostel sent to me had no street names on them. Awesome. After awkwardly asking Hungarians for directions, I found the hostel, where I took a shower and then collapsed on my bed with my stuffed cat, which Nic thoughtfully packed. (She IS a little heavy, though...damn you, Nic!!!)
I was about to give up on the night when I knew the trip would suck if I did so. So I got up, asked the hostel guy for recommendations, and ended up in Lizst Square, which is this lovely little square lined with big trees and tons of cafes. (In fact, this whole neighborhood is lovely. It's kinda like Paris, with the grand boulevards and the big trees. I like it better than Prague already.) I dropped into a cafe playing Sinatra, Bing Crosby, and Ella Fitzgerald, and treated myself to a fabulous appetizer of grilled feta cheese and tomatoes with garlic bread and a pretty decent glass of red wine. I will sleep well tonight. AND I feel 1 million times better.
So, the moral of the story? Food and wine will solve any of Anne's problems (and that's exactly what Nic would like you to think). Or maybe I should just step up and stop waiting for this vacation to happen to me. Spoiling, here we come.
= :)
P.S. Nic, I did NOT spell "traveling" wrong. I am American. Deal with it. Don't even think about posting about it.
P.P.S. I love you, sweetie. :P
Communism rocks
So it's my 3rd day in Prague, and it's unseasonably cold and wet and icky. Most of today was spent walking aimlessly, as I couldn't decide which museums/attractions I wanted to spend my money on. And then I knew - the Communism Museum.
This museum has come highly recommended from people staying at my hostel, so I knew I had to give it a chance. It's this little cluttered place on the 2nd floor of a casino, right above a huge McDonald's (oh, the irony). It's a weird mix of kitsch and serious information, all in badly translated Czech. (Everything seems to be badly translated here - surely there must be some English speakers lying about.) There were massive statues of Lenin and Marx, and what appeared to be a gilded bust of Stalin. I have to say my favorite piece of memorabilia had to be the sign reading "Timeliness for work delivers a deep blow to the Western agressor!" Awesome.
I was going to buy a set of postcards with mildly funny sayings printed on vintage posters, but decided that laughing at Communism was a little crass after the exhibitions on the secret police and people getting beaten at demonstrations. I settled for one with Lenin reading, "We are located upstairs from McDonald's and across the street from Benneton. Vive la Internationalism!"
I spent the rest of the day in a cafe drinking coffee, reading a book, and staring out the window in the manner of one who has no one to hang out with. :( But I had a cookie. :) I rode the trams home, which are super-fun and like the trolleys in San Francisco, complete with bells and astounding hill-climbing ability. Then after heating up my Chinese takeaway from a few nights ago - mmm, eating on the road - I met my new roommates, some charming guys from West Yorkshire. Quiet for Brits, actually, even when coming home drunk. One has a Weezer t-shirt, so they can't be all bad.
That's all from me. Oh, except that I am developing an alarmingly involved inner monologue. Ah, traveling alone - I can't shut up, even when the only one listening is me.
= :)
This museum has come highly recommended from people staying at my hostel, so I knew I had to give it a chance. It's this little cluttered place on the 2nd floor of a casino, right above a huge McDonald's (oh, the irony). It's a weird mix of kitsch and serious information, all in badly translated Czech. (Everything seems to be badly translated here - surely there must be some English speakers lying about.) There were massive statues of Lenin and Marx, and what appeared to be a gilded bust of Stalin. I have to say my favorite piece of memorabilia had to be the sign reading "Timeliness for work delivers a deep blow to the Western agressor!" Awesome.
I was going to buy a set of postcards with mildly funny sayings printed on vintage posters, but decided that laughing at Communism was a little crass after the exhibitions on the secret police and people getting beaten at demonstrations. I settled for one with Lenin reading, "We are located upstairs from McDonald's and across the street from Benneton. Vive la Internationalism!"
I spent the rest of the day in a cafe drinking coffee, reading a book, and staring out the window in the manner of one who has no one to hang out with. :( But I had a cookie. :) I rode the trams home, which are super-fun and like the trolleys in San Francisco, complete with bells and astounding hill-climbing ability. Then after heating up my Chinese takeaway from a few nights ago - mmm, eating on the road - I met my new roommates, some charming guys from West Yorkshire. Quiet for Brits, actually, even when coming home drunk. One has a Weezer t-shirt, so they can't be all bad.
That's all from me. Oh, except that I am developing an alarmingly involved inner monologue. Ah, traveling alone - I can't shut up, even when the only one listening is me.
= :)
Jun 5, 2006
And the rest is goulash
So I can't believe it, but I forgot to talk about the pub crawl I went on last night. I'm usually pretty opposed to these guided tour things, but a girl from my hostel was going and I had nothing else better to do, anyway.
So we met up with our tour guide, who was this hilarious Czech guy named Ivan, an economics student at the local university. He had a thick accent, but a good enough grasp of English to make many halfway witty and self-deprecating jokes.
We went to four pubs, and got a traditional Czech meal along the way. Czech beer is pretty good - I can't say how good a judge I was after the first two beers - and goulash and bread dumplings is damn tasty (it was a toss-up between that and fried cheese and fries...yum)
Emma (the girl from my pub) and I met some other Australians on the tour (the slightly older and less annoying kind) and had a really good time with them. I'm pretty sure I got some pictures, but haven't had the chance to screen them yet. I also remember a badly-advised shot of plum brandy...yuck. However, I DID stay away from the absinthe, as I wanted to be able to walk home.
My hangover wasn't actually that bad this morning, given the circumstances, but I can't say the same for our tour guide (or teh Australian guy in my dorm, still sprawled out in bed at 10:30. Late for the dorm, trust me - everyone seems to wake up at the same time at around 8:30 - boo). He was TRASHED by about the 3rd pub. He was bright red and couldn't focus too well. And it was still a great tour, testament to his skills as a guide. Seriously, what a crazy job - all the free alcohol you can drink, and you get paid for it. Nice.
See ya!
= :)
So we met up with our tour guide, who was this hilarious Czech guy named Ivan, an economics student at the local university. He had a thick accent, but a good enough grasp of English to make many halfway witty and self-deprecating jokes.
We went to four pubs, and got a traditional Czech meal along the way. Czech beer is pretty good - I can't say how good a judge I was after the first two beers - and goulash and bread dumplings is damn tasty (it was a toss-up between that and fried cheese and fries...yum)
Emma (the girl from my pub) and I met some other Australians on the tour (the slightly older and less annoying kind) and had a really good time with them. I'm pretty sure I got some pictures, but haven't had the chance to screen them yet. I also remember a badly-advised shot of plum brandy...yuck. However, I DID stay away from the absinthe, as I wanted to be able to walk home.
My hangover wasn't actually that bad this morning, given the circumstances, but I can't say the same for our tour guide (or teh Australian guy in my dorm, still sprawled out in bed at 10:30. Late for the dorm, trust me - everyone seems to wake up at the same time at around 8:30 - boo). He was TRASHED by about the 3rd pub. He was bright red and couldn't focus too well. And it was still a great tour, testament to his skills as a guide. Seriously, what a crazy job - all the free alcohol you can drink, and you get paid for it. Nice.
See ya!
= :)
Jun 4, 2006
Prague: Stop #1
So, I've finally found a decent Intermet cafe and can write a proper message. Prague, stop #1 on my grand Eastern European tour, is pretty nice. The buildings are gorgeous, and a lot of the original architecture and street layouts are still here.
Also, traveling alone? Not as bad as I thought it would be. So far, I've met someone from my hostel every night, and have been sitting and talking late into the night. I'm sure I'll get lonely at some point, but for now, it's ok. Good times.
My first day was basically spent wandering around the city, which can get pretty confusing with all the little winding streets. Didn't do too much in the way of official sightseeing, but got a general feel for the city and got to sit in the sunshine - yaay sunshine!
It's still pretty ridiculously cold for June, though - today is 50 degrees. ick. I can only hope it gets better as I head south.
Yesterday I attempted to go to the Prague Market, and was foiled by Let's Go's crunchy directions (see Spain), which basically sent me on a tram that didn't have the stop I wanted. Awesome. That failed, I went to the Prague Castle, which is massive and took me practically the rest of the day. There's a gorgeous cathedral with more beautiful and vibrant stained glass than I've ever seen. It also has a tower with a tiny spiral staircase that goes up 220 stairs and has people coming up and down at once, squeezing past one another. THAT was fun - but the view was worth it. I also visited the Toy Museum, which is inexplicably in the castle, and I'm almost ashamed to admit that it's my favorite sight in Prague so far. Am I really that uncultured? But hey, the Barbie exhibit was amazing. :P
I was going to see the old Jewish cemetary today, which is like something out of a Tim Burton film. People were buried on top of each other over the years, and now gravestones are coming out at all angles. I was really excited to see it - until I found out you have to pay to see it. Ah, living on a budget. Fun, fun.
Anyway, should get going, as my internet time is ticking away. Will update soon!
= :)
Also, traveling alone? Not as bad as I thought it would be. So far, I've met someone from my hostel every night, and have been sitting and talking late into the night. I'm sure I'll get lonely at some point, but for now, it's ok. Good times.
My first day was basically spent wandering around the city, which can get pretty confusing with all the little winding streets. Didn't do too much in the way of official sightseeing, but got a general feel for the city and got to sit in the sunshine - yaay sunshine!
It's still pretty ridiculously cold for June, though - today is 50 degrees. ick. I can only hope it gets better as I head south.
Yesterday I attempted to go to the Prague Market, and was foiled by Let's Go's crunchy directions (see Spain), which basically sent me on a tram that didn't have the stop I wanted. Awesome. That failed, I went to the Prague Castle, which is massive and took me practically the rest of the day. There's a gorgeous cathedral with more beautiful and vibrant stained glass than I've ever seen. It also has a tower with a tiny spiral staircase that goes up 220 stairs and has people coming up and down at once, squeezing past one another. THAT was fun - but the view was worth it. I also visited the Toy Museum, which is inexplicably in the castle, and I'm almost ashamed to admit that it's my favorite sight in Prague so far. Am I really that uncultured? But hey, the Barbie exhibit was amazing. :P
I was going to see the old Jewish cemetary today, which is like something out of a Tim Burton film. People were buried on top of each other over the years, and now gravestones are coming out at all angles. I was really excited to see it - until I found out you have to pay to see it. Ah, living on a budget. Fun, fun.
Anyway, should get going, as my internet time is ticking away. Will update soon!
= :)
Jun 3, 2006
There's always gotta be some annoying loud American college girls on a budget flight, doesn't there?
But at least there was a massive British wedding party to drown them out.
So, I made it to Prague and it's day #2 of a month-long trip. Seems like forever now, but I'm sure it will all go by quickly. I've met some cool people so far and have been having a great time - plus, the weather was warm and sunny today, which was a nice change from grey and cold England.
Anyway, deepest apologies, but this keyboard sucks. I'll write a proper update when I can make it to an Internet cafe. See ya!!
= :)
So, I made it to Prague and it's day #2 of a month-long trip. Seems like forever now, but I'm sure it will all go by quickly. I've met some cool people so far and have been having a great time - plus, the weather was warm and sunny today, which was a nice change from grey and cold England.
Anyway, deepest apologies, but this keyboard sucks. I'll write a proper update when I can make it to an Internet cafe. See ya!!
= :)
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